Saturday, July 01, 2006

Manna Wanna!

Manna Wanna (what's up), tout le monde!

Just biked into Ouahigouya from my village after a morning of French class and reading Newsweek and National Geographic with one of my "little sisters" in my courtyard. It was an odd experience to look at pictures of the war in Iraq with her, trying to explain the situation...in French, no less.

Things are good, though I had my first major negative gastrointestinal experience last week. Let me tell you, without going into detail...diarrhea in Africa SUCKS. Luckily, Peace Corps has supplied us all with the means of preparing our own stool sample, which I have done TWICE, thankyouverymuch. Turns out my intense discomfort was caused by some very persistent bacteria hanging out in my intestines...praise Allah for Western meds.

Aside from the intestinal difficulties, training's been going great. My French is improving and I am proficient in the art of greeting (which is truly an ART in Burkina Faso) in Mooré. I have a "good morning" conversation with a least 20 people each day, often before the 6:30 or 7. Speaking of which, sleeping past 6 has become a luxury afforded to me only on the days when I am tired enough to sleep through the roosters crowing, donkeys baying, children yelling and singing, and the profusion of conversation that all begin by 5:30 each morning. Oh, and there is NO WEEKEND in Burkina Faso, work is done every day and people se reveille at the same time every day as well. Days are definitely full and I am often tired, a good thing since it allows me to fall asleep despite the constant din of LIFE that is ever-present in my compound.

On a more serious note, as we delve deeper into training and learn more about Burkinabé life and the struggles and challenges particular to women in this country, I am overcome by my fortune as an American woman. You cannot imagine how fortunate we are in the States until you spend each day watching people work from sunup to sundown just to live. The women I am privileged to live with do more in a day than I could imagine accomplishing in a week - from pouding millet to doing laundry to constant cooking and cleaning to helping the men cultivate in the fields...often with a baby tied to their back during all of these tasks. Regardless of this, the people in my village constantly reiterate how privileged they feel by our presence and bend over backwards day after day to make us comfortable and welcome. You don't know what hospitality is until you've visited Burkina!

The rainy season is not in full effect in Burkina and, more often than not, nights are accompanied by what my dad would brand "a gullywasher". The experience of a storm in Burkina is intense and awe-inspiring from the time you see the dust-laiden clouds rolling over the flat expanse that is ALL of Burkina until the moment the deluge begins pounding on your corrugated metal roof with a power unexpected. The winds that precede the storm are incredibly fast and the pre-rain result is a coat of dust and sand that envelopes everything, inside and out. The first few storms were a bit disconcerting, but now they are a welcome relief from the heat, as the post-storm air is cool and moisture-filled, ensuring a good night's sleep. There is also a post-storm phenomenon of cooled drinking water (regardless of where the water is stored) that is indescribably welcome. Despite the heat, drinking water that is hotter than air temperature when it's 105° out is pretty awful.

That's all the news for now. It's still hot, the mouches (flies) are still ever-present and totally obnoxious, but morale is high and I'm starting to feel a little more Burkinabé every day (although many of the kids in my compound still call me "Nasara" - white person). In general, however, whenever I walk out of my compound into the village, I'm greeted with a chorus of "Chris-tine! Yibeoogo kibare" (good morning, how are you)... to say that this is nice, gratifying, welcoming, etc. would be an understatement.

I miss you all lots and am grateful for the frequent e-mails. Alissa - you win the award for FIRST SNAIL MAIL CORRESPONDENCE! Thank you so much for the postcard. I know real mail is antiquated but it is an AWESOME thing here so do write if you have the opportunity!! My address is:

Christine Hart, PCV
Corps de la Paix Americain
01 BP 6031 Ouagadougou 01
Burkina Faso, West Africa

Writing back is difficult and a little expensive but I will make every effort to respond to any mail..e-mail's a little tougher as access is infrequent so forgive me if I don't always respond but your e-mails are read and MUCH appreciated.

Until next time and with love!!

- Chrissy

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